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Twill fabric guide for India: how the diagonal weave works, types like drill, gabardine and denim, uses, care and wholesale price per metre.
Twill is one of the most useful constructions a garment business can understand. It sits behind jeans, chinos, jackets, uniforms and workwear, and it is also used in shirting and home textiles. Yet "twill" describes a weave, not a fibre, so quality and price vary widely depending on yarn, weight and finish.
This guide explains how twill is made, the main types, where each works best, how to judge quality, and what to expect to pay per metre in India, so you can specify the right fabric before placing a bulk order.

Twill is a woven construction in which each row offsets the over-and-under pattern of the one before it, creating diagonal ribs called wales. Plain weave alternates over one, under one; twill lets yarns float over or under several threads, shifting the interlacing point each row. Common repeats are 2/1, 2/2 and 3/1. Cotton, polyester, wool, silk and blends can all be woven as twill.
| Feature | Twill | Plain weave |
|---|---|---|
| Surface | Diagonal ribs | Flat, even |
| Drape | Often better with longer floats | Crisper |
| Durability | Strong, dense constructions | Varies with density |
| Crease visibility | Diagonal hides creases somewhat | Shows creases more |
Twill prices depend on fibre, count, GSM and finish. Wholesale trade listings in India currently show cotton and cotton-blend twills mostly in the range of about Rs. 80-160/m, with printed or light polyester twills starting near Rs. 40-60/m and specialty or heavier plain twills reaching about Rs. 275/m. Treat these as indicative; exact rates depend on quantity, finish and dyeing.
Care depends on fibre and finish. Wash cotton twill in cold or lukewarm water, pre-treat stains, and test the exact fabric under your intended wash and drying conditions to check shrinkage and colour shift.
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