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Twill Fabric Guide: Types, Uses & Price in India

Twill fabric guide for India: how the diagonal weave works, types like drill, gabardine and denim, uses, care and wholesale price per metre.

Twill Fabric Guide: Types, Uses & Price in India

Twill is one of the most useful constructions a garment business can understand. It sits behind jeans, chinos, jackets, uniforms and workwear, and it is also used in shirting and home textiles. Yet "twill" describes a weave, not a fibre, so quality and price vary widely depending on yarn, weight and finish.

This guide explains how twill is made, the main types, where each works best, how to judge quality, and what to expect to pay per metre in India, so you can specify the right fabric before placing a bulk order.

Close-up of cotton twill fabric diagonal weave texture with folded bolts at Clothwala fabric warehouse

What Is Twill?

Twill is a woven construction in which each row offsets the over-and-under pattern of the one before it, creating diagonal ribs called wales. Plain weave alternates over one, under one; twill lets yarns float over or under several threads, shifting the interlacing point each row. Common repeats are 2/1, 2/2 and 3/1. Cotton, polyester, wool, silk and blends can all be woven as twill.

Common Types of Twill

  • Cotton twill / drill: everyday bottomwear, jackets, uniforms and shirting.
  • Denim: a warp-faced twill with coloured warp yarns, used for jeans and jackets.
  • Chino: medium-weight, soft-handed twill for trousers.
  • Gabardine: tightly woven, usually warp-faced, with a clear diagonal and good wrinkle resistance; used for tailoring and trousers.
  • Herringbone: twill with reversing diagonals forming a zigzag, popular in jackets and suiting.
  • Fancy twills: cavalry, diamond and zigzag twills for decorative and upholstery uses.

Twill vs Plain Weave

Feature Twill Plain weave
Surface Diagonal ribs Flat, even
Drape Often better with longer floats Crisper
Durability Strong, dense constructions Varies with density
Crease visibility Diagonal hides creases somewhat Shows creases more

Uses

  • Apparel: chinos, trousers, jackets, skirts, shirts and uniforms.
  • Workwear and corporate uniforms.
  • Home and utility: upholstery, curtains, cushion covers and bags.

Pros and Cons

  • Pros: strong and durable, versatile from casual to formal, diagonal texture adds visual interest.
  • Cons: heavier constructions can feel warm in hot weather, stains can settle into the weave, and high-friction areas such as knees and pockets may fade or wear unevenly.

Price in India

Twill prices depend on fibre, count, GSM and finish. Wholesale trade listings in India currently show cotton and cotton-blend twills mostly in the range of about Rs. 80-160/m, with printed or light polyester twills starting near Rs. 40-60/m and specialty or heavier plain twills reaching about Rs. 275/m. Treat these as indicative; exact rates depend on quantity, finish and dyeing.

How to Judge Quality

  • Check GSM and thread count against your specification.
  • Look for a clean, even diagonal with no skipped yarns.
  • Test shrinkage and colourfastness after wash before bulk cutting.
  • Request a swatch from the same lot you will receive.

Care

Care depends on fibre and finish. Wash cotton twill in cold or lukewarm water, pre-treat stains, and test the exact fabric under your intended wash and drying conditions to check shrinkage and colour shift.

Source from Clothwala

Clothwala is a direct mill supplier with 500+ fabrics, RFD and digital-printed options, GST invoice, pan-India delivery, bulk discounts and export supply. Browse our cotton fabrics, solid fabrics and dyeable fabrics collections.

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